Walk Along the Fjord.

This afternoon we went to one of the fjords that Stavanger winds itself around, and took Snoopy and ourselves for a walk.  It was pretty crisp out – only 2C+ at the best, but there was very little wind.  We both wore our new touques – the ones we bought downtown this morning. Mine is a navy and white Nordic design with a Norwegian flag and ear flaps – it is great.  We walked over 3 miles, and although my nose and cheeks were cold, my ears were toasty.

We arrived at the Three Swords monument.  The three bronze swords stand in the rock, representing peace, and commemorate the Battle of Hafrsfhord in 872, when Norway was united into one kingdom.  they stand about 10 meters tall.  One is taller than the others , and represents Fairheaded Harald’s sword.

We decided to walk along the fjord first, and check the swords out later – taking advantage of the good weather.  There was a very fast stream running into the fjord – and next to an outlet a man and his two children were getting ready to launch a canoe – those Norwegians MUST be tough.

We passed this sculpture of a fisherman’s wife who rowed across the fjord every day, winter and summer, to sell fish, often barefoot and with shoes in hand (the nearest translation I could get from Google).  There are sculptures like this all over the city – you’ll be seeing many more in this blog, I imagine.

We met quite a few people on the path – and also a lot of dogs.  Snoopy was a bit concerned when three dogs ran up to him to say hello – but he will get used to it, I’m sure.  It’s interesting how he will approach people here to say HI, but had learned he wasn’t welcome in Oman.  He had a grand time running along the path and shore.

Here are a few of the things we saw along the way – an old boat house –

Snoopy waded in the water a couple of times – I was so surprised when he lay down in it – that water is FREEZING! good thing he was running and dried himself off.

This tiny house is on a bit of the 4% of Norway that is cultivated –

Al stone wall with small bits of rubble in the middle –                                                                    Along the rocky beach –                                                                                                                          And the sky!                                                                                                                                               The sunset was a long time coming (Hallelujah) and the sky was magnificent – as were the reflections in the water.

Snoopy walked in some water along the path and came out with his legs black mud up to his ankles – lucky David was the one to take him into the sea to wash him off —                We walked back to the swords,                                                                                                             then along the path the other way for a while.  The colours  and folds in the rocks are very interesting.                                                                                                                                                I couldn’t believe the reflections in the water.  This will be a great place to go again when the sun is shining (fingers crossed on this one).

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Red Tape, Norwegian Style

Today was a long, frustrating day.

In the first week you are in Norway, there are several things you need to do.  I needed to send in my application to become a resident under the Family Immigration section.  Fine – yesterday I filled in the online form, and it was sent to David as a Reference.  He registered so he could do it online, but the form wouldn’t recognize his log-in.  And it was all in Norwegian. Problem 1.

David needed to go to the Police Station to get a stamp in his passport – he already has his work visa.  We got there and the office is closed on Fridays.  Problem 2.

We went down the street to the Tax Office, where we tried to find out what we could do…….. the gentleman we talked to was very nice, and suggested that I reapply with a different location to report to (I’d given the “Immigration” rather than “Foreign Workers”) and NOT put David down to be a reference.   Solution 1 (and it worked).

David had a form he needed to take in.  We finally found out that it should go to the Tax Office, as it is for him to get a tax number, which is the precursor of the National ID number – so now we had the correct place – but he needs to get the police stamp first…… and can’t do it until Monday now.  Problem 3.

As soon as I got home and David left for work, I realized that the pets were supposed to see a vet to get worms treatment within 7 days of arrival in the country.  Today is day 5 and a Friday.  Where are the vets in Stavanger?  Thanks to Google Maps, I found one not too far away, and called them.  They close at 4, and it had to be completed today.. so they gave me an appointment for 2 pm.  I loaded the cat cage and the dog and myself in all my winter clothing and the necessary papers into a taxi and away we went.   By a bit after 3 PM I was 630 NOK (about $110) poorer and it was completed.  Problem 4 solved.

I have an appointment on Feb 7 to apply for my residency – I have my photos and will need to collect the necessary documents, and hopefully it won’t take too long after that to get me in the system……. by then we should have all the steps figured out.

It’s been a long week, as I said before.  I’m glad that we have accomplished so much – and look forward to feeling a bit more organized and settled next week.  The weekend is upon us – David has a gym membership and we have a swimming pass as well…… and a car to explore this beautiful new home country of ours.

It’s going to be OK.

 

 

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First Impressions of Stavanger

Did I mention that it was snowing when I took the dog for a walk early Monday morning?  This is the first snow I’ve seen since December 2009 – and for David – December 31, 2006.  I thought it would feel worse after getting so acclimatized to the warmth and sunshine of Arabia.  I guess I’m tougher than I thought.

Monday morning – David got the joy of taking Snoopy for an early morning walk – and then he went out in search of FOOD.  The only edible thing we had in the apartment was coffee grounds – and we discovered to late that we needed paper filters for the coffee maker, so in spite of the tea strainer, we chewed a few grounds.  Still, that may be the only thing that got us moving.  Luckily, David found a grocery store only 5 minutes or so from home, and he came back with cereal, milk, bread, jam and oranges…… a veritable feast.   And then he headed off again in search of a taxi to take him to work for his first day.  I was left to try to make order out of the chaos created by four suitcases and two pets in a 26′ by 22′ apartment……..and with not enough sleep.

Here is our apartment (pictures taken AFTER the clean-up) –                                                The bedroom – barely large enough for the bed and one night table – with soft, cozy duvets that Jenny loves.

 

 

The living room/kitchen – lots of basic black and white and glass in this place.

                                                                                                                                                                    Great stove – the top is glass with touch pad controls.  It gets hot very quickly if on high, but much slower at a low temperature.  I had a bit of a fit when I first went to use it as the instructions are ALL in Norwegian.  Figured it out though.

We have a long balcony the length of the apartment – and from it we can just see the snowy mountain peaks over the houses.                                                                                                                                                            There is a soccer (football here) field right behind our apartment – I thought this was rather unique with the school children getting ready for practise, and a tractor and bucket clearing the snow.

Children playing in the snow – they come fairly early to school, and are out in the unfenced school yard – it’s so nice to see that they are free to live here without being afraid.

 

 

 

The sun rise at 9:15 –

 

 

I love the houses and the juxtaposition of tall steep roofs and walls – I think I can see using some of this architecture in my quilts – maybe part of the series that is starting with the French streets.

I think we are going to love living in this country.

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Muscat to Stavanger – Three Flights

The one thing I have not liked about living in Oman is that it is a 9 1/2 hour flight to any of the major airport hubs in Europe.  This, on top of another long flight to Calgary, made the trip home one that I didn’t want to do too often.  Muscat to Frankfurt – Lufthansa makes a stop-over in Riyadh – does that mean I can say I was in Saudi Arabia without covering?

We arrived in Frankfurt after a very bumpy flight.  5 am and the next flight was 5 hours away.  I find Frankfurt a very confusing airport.  Because we were carrying on to Norway, an EU country, we went through passport control right there…. no big deal, just a long line.  When we were finally done, we went to find coffee – airplane coffee isn’t usually very good, so we were looking for a real cup.  Snoopy and Jenny were in the good hands of the Frankfurt airport animal care facilities, so we didn’t have to worry about them.

Onward we went – this time to Oslo.  It was only a 2 hour flight – I had a window seat again, but most of the time I saw only clouds. As we were descending, however, I could see the snow on the hills and streams. We were arriving, finally, in Norway.  Now we would see if we had all the animals’ papers in order.

It didn’t take long for the animals to arrive in the baggage claim section, and the Vet on duty was right there to collect us and take us to her station.  Snoopy was heartily sick of being in the kennel by this time – and he kept moving around, causing the crate to tip on the baggage trolley.  We finally got our two cages and 6 pieces of luggage to the customs area.

It turned out that the form we had filled out was NOT the correct one after all – we had the old one.  As we had all the vaccination records, and copies of everything, the bet filled in the proper form and in no timer at all, we were free.

However (drum roll please), we now had 7 hours before our flight to Stavanger.  What do you do in an airport with luggage and two animals for 7 hours?  We trundled everything outside and across the road, and David walked Snoopy where he could still watch Jenny and the rest of the luggage, while I went to see if we could transfer to an earlier flight – there were about 5 between then and 8:15.  Nope.  Snoopy, to my surprise, didn’t mind the snow at all, although his paws were getting cold, so we walked around a bit longer. But we couldn’t do it for 5 hours.

Maybe a taxi ride into Oslo.  We found a taxi that would take the animals, booked the luggage and dog crate into storage, and away we went.  Lovely scenery, with heavy snow on the trees….. then the taxi driver lets us in on the fact that Oslo is 50 km from the airport, and prices in Norway being what they are, it would cost us 1100 NOK each way – that’s a total of $380…. and we would be wandering around in the snow with a dog and a cat cage! Whoops!   We turned around and headed back to the airport.  And then we walked….. it was cold, but the trees were lovely.  The sidewalks were also very, very slippery as it had snowed quite heavily the night before, and there were 8 ft snow piles along the runway in places.  We found the station for the high speed trains (only 170 NOK to Oslo on the train), and sat inside so we could let Jenny out of her crate. She really enjoyed just being held and cuddled after so long in the cage.This is a weird phenomenon – first, you see the sun shining past this steel post …

and when the sun is behind the post, it appears to be shining through the post… only a bit lower than normal.  We never did figure out how the reflection was created.

We watched the Norwegian sun set about 3:30 p,m…

and headed back to the airport.  We got the dog kennel out of  storage and went for pizza and beer, with the two animals on the trolley.  Then we took Snoopy for one last walk, and checked everything in for the flight.

By the time we were finally on board for Stavanger, we had been up for about 40 hours, except for patchy naps on the first flight.  We were hardly off the ground when I was asleep, and I awoke to the lights of Stavanger beneath us.  After collecting our luggage, we found a taxi that would take the dog out of the kennel, so we took it apart and with Snoopy sitting practically on my knee, we managed to fit everything in.  We found the apartment, the door code worked, and by 10:30 we were in bed…… ready for a good night’s sleep.

Oh – and Snoopy had me up at 2:15 am – rotten dog!

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From Muscat to Stavanger…… The Longest Day

Noon, and the packers STILL hadn’t shown up!  They  promised they are on the way…. but we were booked to fly out that night.  Packing boxes everywhere, piles of things that need to be in the air shipment or in suitcases or still to be given away!  My nerves were frayed to the shredding-point.  Jo had already come over to pick up plants, David had taken my car back to the rental agency.

Finally, there were the trucks – but they didn’t come in and begin to work until the supervisor arrived (some 10-15 minutes later).  “No problem”, he said.  “We will be all finished by 4 pm”.  Well, I’d lived in the Middle East long enough to know that when someone said “No problem”, there would be a problem!

First business was to pack up the air shipment. Lack of communication can be a real problem, as illustrated when the poor guy doing the kitchen was busy packing my kettle, toaster etc in a small box. and didn’t understand that he didn’t have to until I flapped my arms like wings and said “air shipment”.  The fellows packing the air shipment took them out and put them in the huge boxes set aside for the purpose.  Would it all fit, I wondered, as I had sewing supplies and lots of kitchen utensils,  towels and sheets and blankets – in short, everything I could think of needing if we get into our house before the shipment arrives – except a bed, or course.  I was pleasantly surprised when I saw that they had packed everything into two boxes – one less than in September, and with a lot more items – and a lot less paper.

It was an eventful afternoon – friends dropped in for moral support, which I really needed.  Betting took place as to what time the movers would indeed be finished.  Against all odds, they were actually finished at 4:30 pm, including hauling my old washing machine off to a friend’s house to store for one who is just moving to Muscat.

Then, we were all done, right!  Oh no…… that would have been too wonderful.  i still had all the suitcases to pack, and we needed to take the jeep back to the rental agency.  We needed to be ready to leave the house completely by 6:30.  Well, with the help of four good friends, we made it out before 7:30 – just fitting everything into two large SUVs.

When we arrived at the airport, we had to wait for the Lufthansa gate to open.  It took a while to check in with extra luggage and two pets in kennels as well.   Here we all are, finally ready to check in.  We kept the pets with us for a while and went for a coffee, then returned to send them off to be loaded.  Poor Snoopy was very worried about the whole procedure – Jenny just complained like any cat who just wants nothing to change.

Here goes Snoopy down the conveyor and out of site.

At 10:45 pm Muscat time, we left.  I had a window seat – it was sad to look out at the lights and think I may never see them again. We were only in Oman for 15 months, and it was way to short – there are so many things we will miss and so many people.

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Moving Day

Well, the big day is finally here, insha’allah. This is Arabic for God willing, and one hears it all the time. There have been times in the past months when I have wondered if He really is.  There have been so many roadblocks, all overcome.  The last was on Wednesday when they should have stuffed the container for shipping to Norway, but didn’t have all the necessary documentation and instead, two men came and spent 4 hours drinking tea and pop, eating cookies, changing the destination on the boxes from “Canada” to “Norway” and packing half a dozen boxes.  Hopefully, the packers will come early, the container will arrive soon after, and all will be completed by mid-afternoon.

Either we are not meant to be in Norway, or we have a very good purpose ion being there, and Someone doesn’t want to see it happen.  The numerous delays have meant that the pets will no longer have to go into quarantine, but can accompany us to Stavanger and our new life.

We have spent the past few days enjoying the company of very dear friends, all of whom have fed us, offered to help us get everything to the airport, and are available for any errands that need to be done today. Where would we be without good friends to light the lamps along the dark road we sometimes travel?  Thank you, thank you, thank you.

I finished Snoopy’s jacket and rain coat, and warm booties – no photos yet, but there will be.   A desert dog from birth who loves to sit in the sun in mid afternoon (30+ degrees C), he is NOT going to know what hit him when he is released from the crate to winter in Norway.  I’m sure he will love the snow, and hate the cold, but will adapt just as we did to the heat of Arabia.

I won’t say my goodbyes to Oman and the Middle East just yet, and I still have photos and adventures here to share with you all………. but, in a Word document, this is a page break.

Hopefully, the next post will be from Frankfurt airport, or Oslo or our apartment in Stavanger.

We fly out at 10:45 pm.

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It’s A Go!

After patiently (impatiently?) waiting for almost four months, we have finally got our go-ahead to move to Norway!.  Visa and residency approved, flights booked.  This process began the beginning of October!

It’s not that we are eager to leave Oman – far from it. This is a beautiful country, and we have only had the chance to explore the richness of terrain and culture for a bit over a year.  We have made some wonderful friends in this short time, and have seen so many wonderful places…….. modern and ancient.  We have enjoyed living by the ocean, with its the crashing waves and quiet ripples (and source of my sea shell collection). It has been thrilling to again live within sight of mountains. But a new job and new challenges beckon.  And so we go.

After living amid brown boxes for almost 4 months, again I am madly scrambling to sort out what needs to come (or will fit, to be more to the point) in suitcases – we are only allowed one each, but I think we will have to pay for an extra).  What will go in the air shipment – do we take the essential for housekeeping, even though we will be moving into a fully furnished and equipped apartment until our container comes?  What if it doesn’t come until a week after we get into the house we hope to rent?  How much fabric and sewing equipment do I pack in – will I have a lot of time by myself to sew, or will I be out and about in Stavanger, exploring my new home town? How much is 500 pounds, anyways?

And can I really get everything on my list DONE in 7 days?  That is probably the biggest worry, as I am notorious for thinking I can do more than the time allotted will allow. I guess all I can do is make my lists, put on my new running shoes, and hop to it.  One way or another, as long as the important matters are attended to, tickets in hand and documents in order, we will be on that airplane next Saturday evening, unhappy but resigned pets in kennels, and the new adventure will begin.

What a lucky person I am – I never imagined that THIS could be my life!

 

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Two Ancient Towns

After leaving Sinaw market, and stopping to picnic under a tree, we started on our way home. Along the way, we came to a village – the two towers on a hill  with another close by looked intriguing, so we decided to see if we could get close for a good photo.Th hill is lime stone, and is called an exotic – the rest of the rock is ophiolite, which is the ocean floor. It is thought that these exotics were islands that got pushed up on the ocean plate when it came over the land plate as the mountains of Oman were formed.

Maybe we can get closer, and have a look.  After a few false starts, ending up on trails too narrow for the SUV, we parked by a path and, grabbing our camera, proceeded to walk through the palm oasis.

Pretty soon, we were there – and around the base of a hill was an abandoned mud-brick village. They are obviously planning to make it an historic site, as there was a paved parking lot in the front (now, WHY couldn’t we find the road that led to it???) Some of the houses had apparently been lived in not so long ago, as there were power lines.

We walked all around the town, looking through windows,poking into doorways, taking photos of old, beautifully carved wooden doors and frames,   checking out the way they used to make roofs and mud walls.One building had painting on the walls, and tile-designs on the inside of the shutters.David and Robert climbed up to the highest tower – they said the view was great, and they got a better idea of just how the town was organized.

This wasn’t taken from the top – only from the roof I climbed up onto to take their photo.

After clambering around and discovering what we could, we carried on to our planned destination – Birkat Al Mouz.  As well as the modern town, there is an ancient village there as well.  We drove through the town, looking for the best place to get close – and discovered the palm oasis – and the most wonderful falajs – or irrigation channels. (For more info, see this site – http://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/198303/oman-the.falajs.htm)

This one was very high above the ground – there were stairs to climb up – inside the wall, and then on the outside.  We left the climbing to Robert and David.See Alice walking beside the falaj – that show just how high it is.This opening in the wall obviously hadn’t been used in a long time – the “mist” you see filling it is all spiderwebs – I’ve never seen so many!This mosque is at the end – the water comes from this level.

A cat outside the bath houseInside the bath house – the falaj goes right through.

Along the high street to the old village, there were bananas growing – I guess this place is known for it’s banana production.Here we are, approaching the old walled city –The outer gate –

An inner gate  Notice the slits in the walls for shooting from – they are in most of the buildings here, so it must have been a well defended (and much sought) location.

This door was just inside – what beautiful work!The falaj flows all through the village -see how narrow the street is – it takes up most of the space. We were turning back here, as the water was milky with soap – people were washing in it just around the corner, and we could hear them talking and laughing.Here are some shots of the buildings

(I have to throw in these “art” shots – I think the light effect is incredible_

And going out – the contrast between the ancient  and modern – or nearly so.The day was a bit longer than we had planned – but worth every minute of it.

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We Made It – Sinaw Thursday Market

Take two – the following weekend – Dec. 29, we headed out to Sinaw again – for the Thursday market.  This is the day when the Bedouin come in to town to sell their camels, cattle, sheep and goats, and stock up on the items they need.  When we arrived about 10 am, the streets were bumper-to-bumper with cars and small pick-up trucks, and the sidewalks thronging with people.  We quickly found a place to park, and , hurrying through the housewares and clothing souq, we headed to the place where they sell the animals.  We were too late!

There were camels, and a few strangling goats and sheep, but the parade of livestock had taken place long before we arrived – and most of the animals had already been sold and taken off, piled into the backs of pick-up trucks, or stuffed into the back of old jeeps.  Still, there were enough around to get some good photos, and lots of interesting people to watch.

Unlike the city Muslims, the Bedouin ladies wear wonderfully colourful robes and scarves, and most wear a burqa or face veil which covers the forehead, nose and mouth.  They used to all be made of cotton, dyed with indigo and beaten to a gold or bronze colour.  As indigo doesn’t absorb into the fibers, it is beaten to fix it, and the colour changes with exposure to sunlight.  They are mostly made of black fabric now, and I’m not sure what the piece sticking out between the eyes is for – it really cuts down your range of vision.

Alice and I each bought one from this little Bedouin lady who was spinning wool with a drop spindle.  There were several ladies watching as we tried them on – they were smiling as if they thought it was neat that we were doing that.  Here is Alice in hers – I’m sure I looked just as funny – but I don’t have the photo yet, so I don’t have to own up to it. I’m sure I looked beautiful. (haha)

These camels were lined up outside the central market shelter, waiting to be loaded up.  these babies were really cute –

And look at the underbite this one has…… it doesn’t seem to hurt his appetite any – he’s a good looking camel.

Around the outside of the ring, there were men selling khanjars, guns, dried fish,

fruits and vegetables

and many other items.  David and Robert were checking out the knives,

but the prices were terribly high – I guess they thought the foreigners wouldn’t know the difference.  They were wrong.

It sure seems funny to see rifles just lying around

or people with ammo belts.

The fish market was busy, with sellers weighing the purchases

rays

small sharks

and striped cuttlefish

And after you buy your fish, there are men there who will fix it however you want.

After we’d roamed the market for a while, we headed back to the car, through the clothing and housewares section.  We bought some of these incense burners – design distinctive to the Sinaw area –

Check out these fabrics – aren’t they amazing?

Trims –

And these mortar and pestle sets – they look like clay but are really plastic.

This was a really interesting trip – I’m glad we made it this time.

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Photos – Sinaw Souq

 

Here are some of the other photos I took as we wandered around Sinaw souq.

The fish sellersFancy knife handlesThe knife sharpenerOld man sitting on bags of dates-
More fish –Goats –Making Omani chests – these used to be made out of solid wood, but they are now just plywood, painted, with lots of brass studs hammered in in traditional designs.Men’s head scarves for sale –The fruit stand area –In the shaded corridor –

This was getting pretty close to closing time, as it was Friday and the call to prayer would go soon.  Before, there had been Bedouin women selling small woven purses and trinkets, and sellers of perfumes etc.

 

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